Wednesday, April 27, 2022

Beautiful Chiang Mai and time with Grandma

Our last full day in Bangkok and we decided to try to go out to the Wat Saket and the Golden Mount. At first, we wanted to take a water taxi to try something novel with the kids, but after waiting for over half an hour, we discovered that it wasn't operational due to the Songkran festival. The temple was crowded with Songkran festivities and the prospect of climbing 300 steps in 100 degree heat while we were all still cranky and jet lagged to get to the Golden Mount was daunting, so we decided to just wander the temple grounds. Lots of whining ensued, but at least we got out of our hotel room and tried to do something.

Waiting for the water taxi

Trying to get a little culture in

After a quick nap, we returned to the cool A/C of the malls, though we couldn't even rally the kids to walk to the half mile to the mall area and had to take a taxi.

Deserts aplenty required to keep the kids' energy up

Modern Bangkok. Our hotel was next to a massive cluster of shopping malls

The next morning, we headed off to the airport again for our flight to Chiang Mai. The flight was short and uneventful, and Nik's Dad met us at the airport to pick us up. After the sweltering, sprawling, concrete metropolis of Bangkok, I was amazed at how small and quaint Chiang Mai seemed in comparison. Conveniently, the hotel we chose to stay at in Chiang Mai was immediately adjacent to my in-laws' building and after checking in, we stopped by for a quick visit.

The purpose of this trip was to primarily visit Nik's Mom whose dementia has been progressing rapidly within the past two years. It's difficult to see her in the state that she's in--she sometimes has brief and fleeting moments in which she seems to recognize me or the kids, but it's very hard to break through the flat affect of dementia. Though we've explained the gravity of Grandma's situation to the kids, there's no real understanding there and I've been trying to take as many pictures and videos for the kids as I can. We visited at least twice daily, with Nik going over on his own more frequently. It was difficult to balance time spent with Grandma with the fact that the kids are still just young and their chaotic energy isn't compatible with her care.

Difficult to capture Grandma's smile. I think the kids' visit made her happy and she would watch them the whole time during our visits

While in Chiang Mai, we did some light sightseeing. We walked the grounds at Wat Chedi Luang, though it was so hot that the kids could barely manage outside of the shade.


Colorful banners and flags everywhere for the Songkran festival


The ruined chedi was quite impressive


Refreshment required after a "long" 45 minute walk around the temple

We also visited the Chiang Mai Zoo. By far, the highlight was renting a golf cart to tour the zoo. The zoo is set on the hillside and in the heat, it proved to be a great decision. And at about $10/hour, it wasn't a bad deal either.

Ballin' in Thailand


We went to the night bazaar, though there were so few tourists and so many shuttered storefronts that it was a little disheartening to see how adversely the pandemic has affected Thailand's tourism industry.


We also took a mini bus up to Wat Pha Lat and hiked down the Monk's Trail to Chiang Mai University. The grounds at Wat Pha Lat were spectacular with Instagram-able shots around every corner. The hike down to CMU was pleasant and all downhill since we had taken the bus up the hill, though nearing the end of the hike the kids' patience was wearing thin and my assurances that "it's not too far," didn't have much effect.

Huay Kaew Waterfall before setting off. The young monks behind us were splashing around in the pool





Among all the touristy things we did in Chiang Mai, the best thing by far was visiting the Maerim Elephant Sanctuary. We had visited an elephant camp previously when we had visited Chiang Mai, though riding elephants has more recently fallen out of favor due to concerns about animal welfare. An elephant sanctuary seems like a fair compromise, giving people an opportunity to get up and close with the animals while ensuring that elephants that may have been previously living as beasts of burden can live out the remainder of their lives in relative comfort.




Muddy bathtime for the elephants. We were proud of Kai and Sora who tentatively went into the water, but Jad refused to go in

With the heat and humidity of Thailand, we visited the pool daily.

Swimming with Grandma and Grandpa

Another hotel, another rooftop pool

The kids preferred the regular pool to the muddy pool the elephants swam in

The area where Nik's parents live has been built up in recent years and there is now a trendy mall across the street. We spent a lot of time in the mall's food court, finding yummy, cheap eats.

Elephant parade at Maya

Khao soi is a regional specialty

Pie shop recommended by Joe. The kids inhaled the chocolate slice

Fun family photo op at One Nimman, a cool looking outdoor mall

$1.50 boba means daily boba! (with Thai iced tea for me)

It wasn't easy to leave Nik's Mom. I'm grateful that we had a chance to see her and my hope is that this visit will leave a good memory of her in the kids' minds. Though it is possible that Nik may return to Thailand on his own, it is unlikely that we will travel here again with the kids. It was a bittersweet visit with stressful moments, so we followed up this leg of the trip with a visit to Phuket. More about that in my next post.

Friday, April 15, 2022

Pandemic travel - three nights in Bangkok

As I write this post it's 5:30 am with two jetlagged kids playing next to me. I woke up at 3 am, Jad at 4 am, and Sora was up shortly afterwards.. I suppose that's just the reality of international travel with kids. Planning for this trip started months ago with the fluid situation of the COVID pandemic complicating matters and making entry requirements a moving target. We had gotten PCR tests 72 hours in advance of our fight, only to discover upon arrival in Thailand that that requirement was dropped at the end of March.

David graciously dropped us off at the airport on Tuesday morning and we spent the hours before our flight enjoying our first airport lounge experience. I felt conspicuous with 3 noisy kids in tow as we entered the hush of the rooms with seated travelers enjoying complimentary food and drink. Noobs that we were, we had to take pictures of everything, but it was nice bit of indulgence to start off that long day.

Ready to embark!


Mimosa and beer to kick things off

Kids were fascinated by the travelator

The flight from SFO to Tokyo went off without a hitch. Before this trip, Kai and Sora had said that they missed flying (we haven't flown since February 2020), but I knew what that really meant was that they missed the in-seat entertainment. :P As expected, the kids spent a lot of time watching movies and reading their Kindles, but they were surprisingly disciplined with their devices and even got a short nap in.


After a brief connection in Tokyo, the flight from Tokyo to Bangkok was a bit more touch and go. Our seats were split and poor Nik was left to parent 3 kids on his own, while I was stuck a row behind in a middle seat, unable to help. Jad hit a wall of exhaustion and rested fitfully, waking up at intervals and crying. Fortunately the these moments were not too long, but it always feels like forever when you're stuck in a small space with strangers and an inconsolable child.

Putting Kai to work

Good job, Nik!

We arrived in Thailand a little bit before midnight, though by the time we exited the airport it was already 1 am. We were duly impressed by the party bus that the hotel sent to pick us up.. with the lack of tourists, folks gotta diversify to make ends meet. First stop on the agenda was COVID swabs for everyone, and then it was off to the our hotel.

Party!

Waiting to get swabbed

We made it!

The kids passed out almost instantaneously. It was a long day

A short quarantine later (results were back by 10 am), we were free to wander the streets of Bangkok. With 100 degree heat and 80% humidity, all that's left to do is go to the mall. Fortunately, there's plenty of them by our hotel and we wandered from SIAM DISCOVERY to the MBK Center and then on to Bangkok Art & Culture Centre.

The hotel provided breakfast while we awaited our test results

Photo comedy.. Nik's still got it!

When it's hot out, you need lots of cold treats

Lunch at the MBK Center food court

♫ Don don don don don-ki.. ♫

After decompressing back at our room, Nik and the kids went on a sunset swim at our hotel's pool.

We decided to rally and attempt to go out to a restaurant only to find that the restaurant we wanted to go to was closed. We ended up a random place across the street and Jad (who had been extremely whiny) promptly fell asleep on the restaurant's bench seating. 

Jet lag hit Jad hard